Ngokujula okuqhubekayo kokuthuthukiswa nocwaningo lokusebenzisa kwama-surfactants, uhla lwayo lokusebenza nalo luyakhula. Njengamanje, ama-surfactant asephenduke izinto eziyinhloko zokuhlanza, futhi anezicelo eziningi ezibalulekile kuzimonyo, njengokumisa, ukusabalalisa, ukuxubanisa, ukukhihliza amagwebu nokuhlanza izimonyo.

1) Emulsification

Umkhuba wokumisa ngokufanayo izinto ezingancibiliki emanzini emanzini ukwenza i-emulsion ubizwa ngokuthi i-emulsification. Ama-emulsifiers asetshenziswa kakhulu ekukhiqizeni okhilimu nama-lotion ezimonyo. Ukhilimu we-powdery ovamile nokhilimu ongathathi hlangothi womabili angama-emulsion wohlobo lwe-0 / W, angafakwa emulsified nge-anionic emulsifier fatty acid soap (insipho). Kulula ukulungiselela ama-emulsions ngamafutha amancane nge-soap emulsification, futhi umphumela we-gelling wensipho ungawenza ube ne-viscosity enkulu. Okokhilimu ababandayo abaqukethe uwoyela omningi, ama-emulsions ikakhulukazi awuhlobo lwe-W / O, futhi i-lanolin yemvelo enokumunca amanzi amakhulu ne-viscosity ephezulu ingasetshenziselwa i-emulsification. Njengamanje, i-non-ionic emulsifier esetshenziswa kakhulu kunazo zonke ukuthi i-non-ionic emulsifier iphephile futhi inokucasuka okuncane. I-sorbitan fatty acid ester (Span) edumile kanye ne-ethylene oxide adduct yayo (iTween) ingama-emulsifiers amahle ahlanganisiwe. I-Span i-lipophilic kanti i-Tween i-hydrophilic, futhi lokhu kuhlanganisiwe. Isetshenziswe kuma-emulsions we-O / W, ingakha imulsions ngokuzinza okuhle nobudlelwano obuphezulu besikhumba.

2) Ukuxazululwa

Isimo sokwandisa ukuncibilika kwezinto ezintengantengayo noma ezingancibiliki sibizwa ngokuthi yi-solubilization. Lapho i-surfactant ingezwa emanzini, ukungezwani kwamanzi kuzokwehla kakhulu ekuqaleni, bese kwakheka ama-micelles wama-molecule asebenzayo. Ukuhlushwa kwe-surfactant esetshenziselwa ukwakha ama-micelles kubizwa ngokuthi yi-micelle concentration. Lapho ukuhlushwa komuntu osebenza ngokufinyeleleka kufinyelela ekugxilweni okubucayi kwe-micelle, i-micelle ingamunca uwoyela noma izinhlayiya eziqinile ngakolunye uhlangothi lwesisekelo se-lipophilic, ngaleyo ndlela kwandise ukuncibilika kwento encibilikayo noma engancibiliki.

Ama-solubilizers ezimonyo asetshenziswa kakhulu ekukhiqizeni ama-lotion, i-hair tonic, ne-hair tonic. Ama-surfactants asetshenziswa njengama-solubilizers kufanele abe ne-hydrophilicity ephezulu, i-HLB> 15, efana ne-polyoxyethylene hardened oil castor, i-polyoxyethylene castor oil, i-fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether, i-fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene Ether, i-polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester ne-polyglycerin fatty acid,

Izithako ezinamafutha ezimonyo, njengamakha, uwoyela, namavithamini ancibilikiswa uwoyela, anezindlela ezahlukahlukene zokuncibilikisa ngenxa yokwehluka kwesakhiwo nobumbano. Ngakho-ke, ama-surfactants afanele kufanele akhethwe njengama-solubilizers. Isibonelo, izinto zokugcotshwa kwe-lotion zingamakha, uwoyela nemithi yokwelapha, njll., Ngakho-ke i-alkyl polyoxyethylene ethers ingasetshenziselwa ukuthambisa amandla. Yize i-alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ethers (uhlobo lwe-OP, uhlobo lwe-TX) inekhono elinamandla lokuncibilikisa, iyacasula amehlo futhi ngokuvamile ayisetshenziswa. Ngaphezu kwalokho, okususelwa ku-castor okususelwa ku-amphoteric kunokuncibilika okuhle kakhulu kumafutha amakha nakoyela wemifino, futhi ama-surfactants anjalo awacasuli amehlo futhi alungele ukulungiswa kwama-shampoo angacasuli nezinye izimonyo.

3) Ukuhlakazeka

Isimo lapho izinto ezingenakunyibilika emanzini zakha izinhlayiya endaweni ehlakazeke ngokufanayo emanzini zibizwa ngokuthi ukuhlakazeka. Uhlelo lokusabalalisa lwezimonyo lubandakanya izingxenye ezintathu: i-powder, i-solvent ne-dispersant. I-powder ingahlukaniswa ngezinhlobo ezimbili: izingulube ezingaphili (njenge-talc, mica, titanium dioxide, i-carbon black, njll.) Kanye nezingulube eziphilayo (njenge-phthalocyanine blue, njll.), Ikakhulukazi ukwenza izimonyo zibe nethoni yombala omuhle, ukumboza umbala ongemuva, futhi usebenzise kahle ama-Solvents ahlukaniswe izinhlobo ezimbili: amanzi-based futhi non-aqueous. Izisabalalisi ezisetshenziswa njengemidiya ziyi-hydrophilic (esebenza kumasistimu wamanzi) ne-lipophilic (esebenza kumasistimu angenawo amanzi). Ngakho-ke, uhlelo lunezinhlanganisela eziningi.

Ama-surfactants amaningi asetshenziswa kuma-dispersants angama-emulsifiers kanye nama-dispersants, njengamafutha we-polyoxyethylene ethers, i-sorbitan fatty acid esters, i-fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether phosphates, i-alkyl ether carboxylates kanye ne-alkyl ether. AmaSulfonate, njll., Zonke zinezindawo ezinhle zokuhlakaza. Ukuze impuphu ihlakazeke ngokuphelele kulolo ketshezi, uketshezi kufanele lukwazi ukumanzisa ingaphezulu lempuphu kahle. Ngakho-ke, lapho ukhetha umuntu osebenza ngokusebenza kahle, qala ngokubheka i-HLB yompuphu kanye nendawo yokusabalalisa. Ngokuvamile, lapho usebenzisa i-lipophilic powders ezinhlelweni ezisuselwa emanzini, ama-hydrophilic surfactants kufanele asetshenziswe ikakhulu.

4) Umphumela wokuhlanza

Imikhiqizo yomuntu esetshenziselwa ukuhlanza ikakhulu ifaka i-shampoo, i-gel yokugeza kanye ne-cleanser ebusweni. Ngaphezu kokuhlanza, ukwenza amagwebu nokwenza amafutha asebenze, okucatshangelwa kakhulu njengamanje ubumnene besikhumba. Lokhu kudinga ukuthi umuntu osebenza ngokushisayo angalimazi amaseli e-epidermal, angaphazamisi amaprotheni esikhumba, futhi angangeni noma angene esikhunjeni. Ukugcina uwoyela wesikhumba nesikhumba uqobo sisesimweni esijwayelekile.

Ama-anionic surfactants anomlando omude wokuhlanzwa. Ukuhlanzwa kwensipho akunakuqhathaniswa namanye ama-detergent. I-sodium lauryl sulfate yinto eluhlaza esetshenziswa kakhulu ekuhlanzeni izimonyo, ingenza isikhumba sithole umphumela omuhle wokuhlanza. Ama-amphoteric surfactants, i-imidazoline, i-cocamidopropyl betaine nama-amino acid konke kungukuhlanza okuncane, futhi kuyizinto ezisemqoka ekulungisweni kwemikhiqizo yokuhlanza ubuso esezingeni eliphakeme, ama-shampoo okunakekelwa kwezinwele nama-shampoo engane.

5) umphumela Soft futhi antistatic

Ama-Cationic surfactants yizimiso eziphambili emikhiqizweni yokulungisa izinwele njengama-conditioner kanye nama-conditioner. Banobumnene obuhle nekhono le-antistatic futhi badlala indima eyingqayizivele kuzinciphisi zokuthambisa izinwele. Okusetshenziswa kakhuluama-cationic surfactants kukhona i-monoalkyl ne-dii-alkyl quaternary ammonium usawoti, okungukuthi i-C16-18 monoalkyl ammonium salt, i-C16-18 ephindwe kabili i-alkyl quaternary ammonium usawoti futhi i-alkylbenzyl usawoti we-ammonium quaternary. I-Asymmetric tallow,octyl dimethyl quaternary ammonium usawoti kanye no-3-cetyl methyl ammonium usawoti, lawa masawoti e-quaternary ammonium anemiphumela emihle ekama ukoma, ikama emanzi kanye nokunqanda izinwele. Muva nje, okubamba amehlo kakhulu ngusawoti we-quaternary ammonium osuselwa ku-lanolin fatty acid. Ayicasuli kangako futhi inendawo yokugcina amanzi nokumanzisa i-lanolin nezimpawu ze-ama-cationic surfactants, ezinganika izinwele ukuthinta okumanzi nokuhlukile njengokuthamba.

6) Ukumanzi nokungena

Njengezimonyo, akumele babe nemiphumela yobuhle kuphela, kepha futhi bazizwe bekhululekile futhi bathambile lapho besetshenziswa. Lokhu akuhlukaniswa nomphumela wokumanzi wama-surfactants. Mayelana nalokhu, ama-biosurfactants athole imiphumela emangalisayo. Njengengxenye ebalulekile yamaseli ezinto eziphilayo, i-phospholipids ibamba iqhaza elibalulekile ekulawulweni kweseli nokuguqulwa kweseli ulwelwesi, futhi inokugcinwa okuhle komswakama nokutholakala kwesikhumba somuntu. Ama-biosurfactants eSophorolipid anokuhlangana okukhethekile kwesikhumba, okungenza isikhumba sithambe futhi sibe nomswakama. Kusetshenziswa ukuhlanganiswa kwamakhemikhali nezinye izindlela ukulungiselela izinto ezisebenzayo zamakhemikhali kanye namavithamini atholakala, amalungiselelo enzyme, izici zokukhula kwamaseli (i-EGF, i-DFGF), i-collagen, i-elastin, i-ceramide ne-hyaluronic acid, njll., Lezi zinto zingasetshenziswa kuzimonyo. Ingena esikhunjeni, ibambe iqhaza ekuguqulweni kwamangqamuzana esikhumba nezicubu, iguqula ukwakheka kwezicubu zesikhumba, njll, ukuze kufezekiswe imiphumela yokulwa nemibimbi, ukulwa nokuguga nokwenza mhlophe.